![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Additionally, over time, the two painted surfaces will stick together. Attempting to then adjust that for the thickness of two layers of paint will be neigh on impossible. Of course, you'll have to make several test joints to ensure your lap joint is going to line up with the precision you're after. I would definitely recommend perusing for finishing ideas. I am leaning towards #1, is there a way to account for the thickness of the paint in cutting the lap? Maybe it'll be insignificant, given I am a beginner and the lap will be far from perfect anyways. Not ideal as I have to paint it in place and if it is ever moved I am back to number 2's issue (or if it shifts a little over time). I worry that with this method the "sloop" in the connection between the two (carriage bolt) will make it so it would be pretty hard to be perfectly lined up so some bare wood would be exposed. paint the beam and post but do my best to not paint the area the beam and post meet.On the plus side there will be no exposed bare wood anywhere, on the negative I somehow have to account for the thickness of the paint in cutting the lap or have it not quite smooth across the joint. This will have two painted surfaces touching anywhere there is contact. Paint the beam and post all over then attach the two.I can't figure out the best path forward for painting the lap joint, I think I can: The furniture will be painted white (semi-gloss). I am building a loft bed, the post (4x4) will have a notch/lap joint at one end which will have a beam sitting in it. ![]()
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